How did the LVMH Young Designer Awards be selected?

The day before the fifth LVMH Young Designer Award was announced, the LVMH Foundation designed by Frank Gehry in Paris was almost empty. The first to arrive was Mike Eckhaus, a co-founder of gender-neutral brand Eckhaus Latta from New York. A week ago, Mike came to Paris with his partner Zoe Latta. "I'm confident and happy to be here," Eckhaus said as he ironed his clothes while doing mental presuppositions and preparations for the next day's speech.

However, the room was quickly filled with the remaining eight finalists and teams, including A-Cold Wall* by Samuel Ross; Botter, co-founded by Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh; Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, Charles Jeffrey; Ino. The "Doublet" (Masayuki Ino); the aforementioned Eckhaus Latta co-founded by Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latte; the Kwaidan Editions of Léa Dickely and Hung La; and Rokh Rok Hwang and the namesake of Matthew Adams Dolan.

The designers of Kwaidan Editions and Eckhaus Latta were the first to meet, but like Botter and Doublet, they quickly became friends. After the last meeting in the semi-finals in March, the majority of people did not have a chance to meet each Other. Everyone said hello to each other. In the 24 hours of the competition that competed for 300,000 Euros, they painted a picture of a harmonious atmosphere. The other party expressed admiration for their respective designs.

"I don't expect to win," Iwano said with a smile on Tuesday. He said that the climax of the game was "In the semi-finals, Haider Ackermann saw my series and told me that John Galliano will also use my materials."

But on Wednesday, Ino took it back to this year's LVMH Young Designer Award. The award was awarded to the designer with a bonus of 300,000 Euros, as well as his one-year career counseling from executives of LVMH, including Senior Vice President of LVMH Fashion, CEO of Nicholas Kirkwood, Sophie Brocart .

The gender-neutral street fashion brand founded by the Japanese designer is famous for its innovative textile design and sales methods. His deconstruction processing and humorous design have been well received by the reviewers. The brand was established in 2012 and displayed at Tokyo Fashion Week. Currently there are 25 retail outlets worldwide, including Dover Street Market and 10 Corso Como. Inoue was born in Gunma Prefecture, Japan in 1979. He graduated from the Tokyo Mode Academy School and was the head of Miharayasuhiro's footwear and accessories design.

“[The work of Iwano will be like a modern Issey Miyake,” said Clare Waight Keller, the artistic director of Givenchy. “He broke through the boundaries between textile fabrics and clothing, even though there is no advantage in language exchange, but it does not hinder him. The superb display of the entire series."

“I was totally surprised by his modern deconstruction process,” admiring Nicolas Ghesquière, Louis Vuitton Women’s Creative Director. “I have been the judge of the competition for five years, but this year’s results made me feel particularly worth celebrating.”

Ino said that he has not yet thought of how to allocate bonuses and senior management guidance.

LVMH Young Design Award Rok Hwang, his brand is Rokh | Photography: Benoit Peverelli

LVMH also awarded a special award to South Korean designer Rok Hwang. His women's brand studio is located in London. The brand carries out the spirit of elegance and social inclusion and balances the femininity and masculinity. The brand has grown to the third quarter with more than 100 retail outlets including L'eclaireur, Lane Crawford and KM20.

Hwang received a prize of 150,000 euros, as well as one-year guidance and help from LVMH Group.

Since its establishment five years ago, this award, created by Louis Vuitton’s Executive Vice President Delphine Arnault, has become the cradle of emerging designers. Huge bonuses, a jury team composed of star designers, and direct cooperation with LVMH, the world's largest luxury goods group, have laid the authority and statement of the award.

Finalists agreed that the award is the largest worldwide award for emerging designers. “The quality of the judges and the exposure that the award brings to you is beyond any other award,” said Léa Dickely, not forgetting the task at hand and trying out one of her models for the double row of the latest Kwaidan Editions. Buckle pattern jacket.

Paris designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin is the youngest player to be finalist this year. His series has just been launched for two seasons. He said that “high implementation of awards and [list of] designers’ lists are all sources of influence. Standing in front of all LVMH’s brand creative directors and presenting their fashion collection to them is a very rare opportunity in itself. Give me a lot of benefits."

This year's nine finalists have stood out from more than 1,300 applicants in 90 countries and regions, including three pairs of designer duo and three gender-neutral fashion brands. The jury consists of nine creative directors of brands under the LMMH umbrella, including star-rated designers such as Karl Lagerfeld, Nicolas Ghesquière and Maria Grazia Chiuri; and executives such as Delphine Arnault, Jean-Paul Claverie, Sidney Toledano and Pierre-Yves Roussel. Among them are 48 fashion experts, including Angelica Cheung, editorial director of Vogue Clothing and Beauty, Fabien Baron, artistic director, and Bella Hadid, Dior spokesperson.

Each finalist hopes to be the ultimate winner - most brands admit that winning this award can help them expand their teams, open the retail market, and re-adjust their brand communication strategies; all brands express their awards to attract international media and buyers. The attention of consumers, to a certain extent, paved the way for future success and established their own business.

For LVMH, the Young Designers Award is not only an important public relations tool, but also a good opportunity to contact young fashion talents. What is more important is that they can explore the early career and establish contact with the most outstanding young designers. Looking back at the development trajectory of the previous finalists, you will find that many people have really grown up, have a successful company or become a key figure in the LVMH Group's brand. For example, Louis Vuitton's new men's art director Virgil Abloh is the 2015 finalist; Dior Homme recently hired the awards 2017 finalist Yoon Ahn as a jewelry designer.

But he won a big prize and should not be dazzled by victory. Although the awards do enable the growth of many previous winners (including Marine Serre, Marques' Almeida, Jacquemus), no one can guarantee success. Since winning the award in 2014, both Thomas Tait and Hood by Air have closed their personal fashion product lines. The 2016 special award winner Vejas Kruszewski has also recently postponed the release of the same-name brand and switched to Pihakapi, the Italian leather brand.

Last year's award winner Marine Serre was quite experienced. The key to achieving sustainable growth is to pay attention to the speed of use of bonuses. She said, "The bonuses are soon used up." Added 2016 Grand Prix winner Marques' Almeida, "We must use bonuses wisely and face those sudden challenges."

However, Inoue did not worry about the future. "I will use my own method and speed to take a step-by-step approach and allow myself to grow."

Christopher Morency was invited by LVMH to Paris.

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