One, knitted fabrics overview:
Knitting is the use of knitting needles to form yarns by bending them into loops. The difference between knitted fabrics and woven fabrics lies in the different shapes of the yarns in the fabric. Knitting is divided into weft knitted fabrics and warp knitted fabrics. Currently, knitted fabrics are widely used in apparel fabrics and linings , home textiles and other products, and are popular with consumers.
Second, knitted fabric varieties:
(a) The weft knitted fabrics are often made of low-elastic polyester filaments or special-shaped polyester filaments, nylon filaments, cotton yarns, wool yarns, etc., using flat-needle organizations, changing flat-needle structures, ribbed flat-needle organizations, double ribbed plain stitches, and jacquard weaving. Organizations, terry organizations, etc. Weave on various weft knitting machines. It has many varieties, and generally has good elasticity and extensibility. The fabric is soft, firm and wrinkle-resistant, and has a strong hair-like sensation and is quick-drying. However, its hygroscopicity is poor, the fabric is not stiff enough, and easy to disperse, curl, synthetic fabrics easy to fluff, pilling, hooking silk.
There are mainly the following varieties:
1. Polyester-dyed knitted fabrics: The fabrics are bright in color, beautiful in appearance, and matched in color and texture. The texture is dense and thick, the weave patterns are clear, and the hair type is strong, similar to wool fabric tweed style. Mainly used for men and women's tops, suits, windbreakers, vests, skirts, cotton jacket fabrics, children's clothing, etc.;
2. Polyester Knitted Fabrics: This fabric is dense, firm, wear-resistant, stiff and elastic. If the raw material is made of spandex cored yarn, it can be knitted into elastic knitted denim with better elasticity. Mainly used for trousers for men and women.
3 , polyester knitted wick strip fabric : fabric concave and convex, feel thick plump, good elasticity and warmth. Mainly used in men's and women's wear, suits, windbreakers, children's clothing and other fabrics;
4. Polyester-covered cotton knitted fabric: The fabric is dyed for shirts, jackets and sportswear fabrics. The fabric is crisp, anti-wrinkle, firm and wear-resistant. It is moisture-absorbent, soft and comfortable.
5 , artificial fur needle fabric: fabric feel thick, soft, warm and good. According to different varieties, it is mainly used for coat fabrics, clothing linings, collars, hats, etc. Artificial fur is also woven with warp knitting methods.
6 , velvet knitted fabrics: fabrics feel soft, thick, fast and wear-resistant, hair thick towering, light soft. Mainly used for outerwear fabrics, collars or hats. It can also be made by warp weaving, for example: warp-knitted pile shearing fabric;
7 , Hong Kong-style knitted wool fabric: it has both slippery cashmere fabric, soft, bulky feel, but also silk fabric soft luster, drape, do not shrink, permeability characteristics. Mainly used as spring, autumn and winter fashion fabrics.
(2) Warp-knitted fabrics are often made from synthetic filaments such as polyester, nylon, vinylon, and polypropylene. They are also made from cotton, wool, silk, hemp, chemical fiber, and their blended yarns. It has the advantages of good dimensional stability, crisp fabric, small dispersibility, no curling, and good air permeability. However, its lateral extension, flexibility and softness are inferior to those of weft knitted fabrics.
There are mainly the following categories:
1 , polyester warp knitted fabric : cloth flat, bright color, thick and thin points. The thin type is mainly used as a shirt and skirt fabric; the medium-thick type and the thick type can be used for clothing for men and women, windbreaker, tops, suits, trousers and other fabrics;
2. Warp-knitted pile fabric: It is mainly used as winter men's and women's coats, windbreakers, tops, trousers and other fabrics. The fabric is drapeable, easy to wash, quick-dry, and free from scalding, but the static electricity accumulates in use and is easy to absorb dust;
3 , warp-knitted mesh fabric: taking the mesh fabric texture is light, flexible and breathable, feel smooth and soft, mainly for summer men and women shirt fabric;
4. Warp-knit velvet fabric: The surface of the velvet is densely covered with thick, full, soft, flexible, and good warmth. It is mainly used as a winter garment and children's clothing fabric.
5 , warp terry fabrics: This fabric is full of thick hand feel, fabric firm fastness, elasticity, hygroscopicity, good warmth, terry structure is stable, with good performance, mainly for sportswear, lapel T-shirts , sleepwear, children's clothing and other fabrics.
Third, what is the difference between knitted fabric warp knitting and weft knitting?
The difference between the basic structure of warp knitting and weft knitting
Warp knitting with multiple yarns simultaneously in the longitudinal direction (warp direction) of the cloth
Weft knitting is looped in the horizontal (weft) order of the department by one or more yarns
Weft knitted fabrics can be formed with a minimum of one yarn, but in order to increase production efficiency, a plurality of yarns are generally used for weaving; while a warp knitted fabric is a fabric that cannot be formed with one yarn, and one yarn is used. Only one coil can form a pod. The textile printing and dyeing apparel information platform is the most influential WeChat self-media for the textile printing and dyeing apparel industry.
All weft knit fabrics can be disjoined in the reverse weaving direction, but warp knit fabrics are not.
Warp knits cannot be woven by hand.
Warp knit fabrics fall into two categories:
One is Raschel fabric, the main feature is a large flower shape, rough cloth surface, many holes, mainly decorative fabrics;
The two are tricol fabrics with fine fabrics and less color, but the yield is high. The main products are covered fabrics and printed fabrics. These fabrics are mostly used for chemical filaments, otherwise the production efficiency is extremely low.
Fourth, knitted fabric knowledge
(a) Yarn counts for knitted fabrics
Pure cotton yarn is a single yarn or strand with a certain degree of fineness and unlimited length that is spun from cotton and is suitable for weaving, knitting, thread making, and string making. Its specifications are usually expressed in English. The definition of cotton yarn (Ne) is defined as the length of a cotton yarn with a nominal weight of one pound. Calculation of the cotton count of the English yarn: When the moisture regain is fixed, a cotton yarn weighing a pound is a few 840 yards, which is called a few English. Such as: containing 32 840 yards, it is called 32 British, and so on.
(B) Yarn Classification
Coarse yarn: 18 cotton yarns or less, mainly used for weaving thick fabrics or fleece looped cotton fabrics.
Medium yarn: 19-29 British cotton yarn. Mainly used for general requirements of knitted garments. Fine yarn: 30-60 English pure cotton yarn. Mainly used for high-grade needle cotton fabrics. Finer yarn: more than 60 English cotton yarns for high-grade needle cotton fabrics.
(c) Carding and Combing
Carded yarn: refers to the yarn spun from a carded spinning process, also known as unspun yarn.
Combed yarn: refers to the use of high-quality cotton fiber as raw material, which is produced by adding combing process to carded yarn during spinning.
(d) Weight of knitted fabrics
The square meter of fabric weight is generally grams. Weight is an important technical indicator of knitted fabrics. In knitting products, in general, the heavier the grammage, the thicker the texture of the fabric.
Fifth, the use of knitted fabrics for clothing design considerations:
(a) Using the stretchability of knitted fabrics
Knitted fabrics have good flexibility and can minimize joints, pleats, splicing, etc. that are designed for styling. Secondly, knitted fabrics are generally not suitable to use the techniques of pushing back and drawing hot, but use the flexibility of the fabric itself or the proper use of the folds to suit the body curve. Then the size of fabric stretch becomes an important basis in the design of the template design.
The model of the woven garment is generally larger than the area required for wrapping the human body, that is, there is a certain amount of looseness relative to the human body; and the knitted garment is made of a material with a particularly large elasticity, depending on the structure of the fabric used. The yarn is associated with the structure of the structure. The design template is not only loose, its model size can be the same as the size of the human circumference, but also can consider the elastic coefficient and reduce its size.
(b) Utilizing hemming property of knitted fabrics
The hemming property of the knitted fabric is due to the edge fabric wrapping phenomenon caused by the disappearance of the stress in the fabric edge coil. Hemming is the inadequacy of knitted fabrics. It can cause irregularities in the seams of garments or changes in the size of garment edges, which ultimately affects the overall appearance of garments and the size of garments. However, not all knitted fabrics have hemming property, but they are fabrics of individual tissue structures such as weft knitted fabrics. For this kind of fabrics, the design can be carried out by adding or retracting the size to carry out the trimming and ribbing. Or the edge of the garment and the method of inlaying the adhesive lining are solved. Some of the knitted fabrics have the hemming property eliminated during the finishing process of the fabric, avoiding the trouble of the design of the template. It should be pointed out that many designers can learn from the performance of fabrics to counter the disadvantages and use the hemming property of fabrics to design them at the neckline and cuffs of the model, so that the clothing can be given a special appearance style, which is refreshing. In particular, in the weaving of shaped garments, it is also possible to use their curling to form unique patterns or dividing lines.
(three) pay attention to the dispersibility of knitted fabrics
Knitted fabrics differ in style and characteristics from woven fabrics, and their style of apparel not only emphasizes the advantages of fabrics but also overcomes their shortcomings. Because individual knitted fabrics have the property of dissipating, model design and production should pay attention to some knitted fabrics and do not use too much exaggeration. We should not design provincial roads and cutting lines as much as possible, and stitching seams should not be too much to prevent knitting loops from occurring. The dispersal and affecting the suitability of the clothing should be coordinated with the soft and agile style of the soft and simple lines and the knitwear.
Sixth, fabric characteristics:
Knitted fabrics are fabrics made by stitching each other through a loop and are a large variety of fabrics. Knitted fabrics have good elasticity, moisture absorption, breathability, comfort and warmth. They are the most widely used fabrics for children's wear. The raw materials are mainly cotton, linen, wool, and other hot-weather fibers. Also, knitted fabrics of chemical fibers such as nylon, acrylic, and polyester are rich in tissue changes. Many appearances and unique features have been used in underwear and T-shirts. Nowadays, with the development of the knitting industry and the emergence of new finishing techniques, the performance of knitted fabrics has greatly improved, and it is almost suitable for all categories of children's wear.
Seven, the scope of application:
Knitted fabrics can be used for a wide range of raw materials, including cotton, wool, silk, hemp, chemical fiber and their blended yarns or yarns. In addition to having good wrinkle resistance and breathability, the knitted material is soft and extensible. It also has great extensibility and elasticity, and is suitable for underwear, tights and sportswear. After changing the structure and improving dimensional stability, knitted fabrics can also be used as outerwear. Knitted fabrics can be woven into gray fabrics , cut into various knits, and can be woven directly into fully formed or partially formed products such as socks and gloves.
Knitwear is widely used in the fields of industry, agriculture, medical care and hygiene, in addition to underwear, outerwear, socks, gloves, hats, sheets, bedspreads, curtains, mosquito nets, carpets, laces, etc. Filter cloths for dust removal, high pressure hoses for oil and gas transmission, gaskets for rubber and plastics industries, oil booms for oil ports, safety nets for construction, packaging bags for agricultural and sideline products, low pressure hoses for irrigation and fertilization, crops Cutting nets to protect the banks of bank slopes, fishing nets, artificial blood vessels, artificial heart valves, bandages, and knee pads. The disadvantage of knitted fabrics is that they are easily hooked and the size is difficult to control.
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