[Textile knowledge] The characteristics of traditional varieties of worsted wool fabrics

(2) Huada: Also known as gabardine, because Huada often uses waterproof finishing, used as a rain coat fabric, so it is translated. In the past, it was customarily used to pass the line of thread and yarn in the weft. The tissue is generally 2/2 right oblique, and the diagonal is an acute twill with an angle of 62°-63°. On the surface of the cloth, there is a sharp striped triangular tribute consisting mainly of warp yarns. Its latitude ratio is around 0.50 to 0.52. There are three types of medium-thickness, medium-thin, and heavy-duty models. The medium-heavy gabardine, or Huada for short, requires rough and straight grain lines, tight structure of warp and weft yarns, and thick bones. It is the representative variety of gabardine products. The medium and thin gabardine, also known as the single-sided gabardine, is organized as a 2/1 right oblique, the surface of which shows a fine, sharp, diagonal twill, and the skeletal body is solid and detailed. Since it is a 2/1 right oblique structure, the opposite side of the fabric is not obvious. Face twill, this is the origin of one-sided gabardine. The weight of the product is lighter, the fabric is fine and elegant, and the drape is good. The heavy-duty gabardine is also known as satin-backed gabardine. It is organized as a satin-backed structure (a type of reinforced satin). The front of the fabric is approximately 2/teep diagonal and the reverse side is satin weave, resembling a double-layered structure. The twill tilt angle is 56°-57°, and the weft density ratio is 0.45-0.50. The fabric body is plump and warm.

(3) Hai Li Meng: It is the transliteration of the harring bone. However, the organization adopts a 2/2 right oblique or 3/3 right oblique pattern, a complete warp yarn number of 8×2 or 12×2, and a Kj of 8 or 12 (K is the number of warps before the change of the twill direction). The surface is a strip of human characters, and there are wavy patterns in the horizontal direction. This is the style characteristic of Hai Li Meng. The density ratio of the latitude is about 0.8, the color is mainly darker, and the body bone is thicker and thicker. It is a relatively high grade product.

(4) odor: it is the sound of transliteration of worsted flannel, because the product is noodles, so it is called, and it is the same type as 哔叽, and the main difference is that 哔叽 is plain, and the fabric is thick and loose, and the flavor is It is a mixture of colors, fine and compact fabrics, similar to woollen flannel after shrinking and finishing, it is also known as worsted flannel. The color is dominated by gray, with a variety of noises. The color mixing method is generally a mixture of white wool strips and dyed wool strips to form a variety of deep, medium and light colors, and the blending is particularly uniform as a top grade, so generally the middle color is blended between the dark and light color contrast colors. In order to ease the strong perception of contrasting colors, a uniform color mixing phenomenon is formed. There are also mixed colors with printed tops. The color mixing effect is uniform, but the color mixing that appears on the surface seems to be an absolutely uniform color mixing style, which is another style that is different from the colored tops. The fabric organization is the same as that of the weft and the latitude ratio is about 0.8 to 0.85. The texture of the fabric is soft. Due to its thick and light hair covering the face, it can be divided into five different styles: smooth, positive, sub-face, high-face and low-face.

(5) Vanidin: The transliteration of valitin is a type of summer fabric in worsted wool products. Plain weave fabrics are used, and we also use woven fabrics with positive and negative twists to sew hidden and hidden patterns, but this is not Authentic Fan Liding. Vanidin uses its plain grain with clear, glossy and natural surface as its style feature. The fabric is light and smooth, smooth and flexible, smooth and delicate, and the latitude and longitude are tight. The weft density ratio is between 0.88 and 0.90. Fine and large yarns are often used. Due to the use of different yarns, the fabric is divided into two types, coarse and fine.

(6) Paoli Division: The transliteration of palace is the summer fabric of worsted products, and is also the thinnest type of worsted wool fabric. The most distinctive feature of the fabric is that the fabric has a darker main color than the wool fibers. Evenly distributed on the surface, so that the formation of the surface can be faintly visible by the deep and light color of the rain wire criss-cross streaks. The reason for the formation of this style characteristic is that the natural color of the wool and the main color are used as the background color, and the color of the fiber that is deeper than the main color is used as the color, and some auxiliary colors may also be mixed therein to increase the freshness of the color. If the main color is gray, the auxiliary color can be dark blue, light green, generally white wool accounts for 60% to 70%, the main color accounts for 20% to 25%, showing color accounts for 5% to 8%. The proportion of the main color can be adjusted according to the requirements of the color light, but the amount of visible color can not be increased, otherwise it will affect the style, the main color can use two similar colors to correct the color light. However, intermediate colors cannot be used.

Paili Division is generally a plain weave. The weft ratio is generally 0.8 to 0.82. Its warp yarns are strands, and the weft yarns are single yarns. The hand feels slippery, firm, thin, active, elastic, and distinctly colored. Smooth, clean, natural luster.

(7) Women's clothing: The variety of colors and colors of the variety, the color is brighter and changes with the color, the organization has plain lines, changes in twill, small jacquard, mottled lines, etc., with plain colors, grids, decorative flowers, printing, etc. Different patterns. The warp and weft yarns are all stranded, or the strands are single yarns, and the texture of the fabric is soft and light.

(8) Tweed: It is the most important breed in worsted woolen cloth, and it is the mainstream variety of woolen cloth. It is based on a variety of shades of colored yarns and mixed yarns and double rovings combined into a same-colored twine or a different-colored twine. It also includes a coarse yarn and a fine yarn, and it also has a synthetic three-strand yarn. , coupled with a variety of patterns to form a variety of changes in the color of woolen cloth. Can adapt to the needs of spring, summer, autumn and winter in different seasons. And through continuous innovation to meet consumer demand. From the fabric's appearance style, the characteristics can be divided into: Suhua, bar lattice tweed, coarse flat tweed, thin tweed, diamond tweed, serrated tweed, bird-eye tweed, cashmere tweed and so on.

(9) Board Secretary: Transliteration for the basket. A traditional variety that belongs to plain medium and thick fine textiles. The organization usually uses 2/2 square flats, and the weft density ratio is between 0.85 and 0.88. There are two kinds of pure colors and mixed colors. The common A/B flower lines (two different color yarns are added together with the color line). The face shows a small square style, with a thicker body.

(10) Single-faced tweed: The double-tissue structure that is used for warp yarn change is named because of its different patterns on the front and back. Generally, colored stripes and jacquard-inlaid strips are used to weave different stripes or patterns on the front and back, and are used. The left and right twists of the yarn are woven into hidden strips narrow as toothpick width, so it is called toothpick tweed. The fabric is characterized by a thick and thick body, a smooth and smooth touch, a hidden stripe on the surface, a stable and generous appearance, and different patterns on the front and back. It is a high-end representative variety in worsted products. The latitude ratio is between 0.64 and 0.70.