First quarter Woven sheet (Knitting)
Formation of the knitting, the knitting system is the use of yarn bent into a coil, each coil sets of strings become fabric, the coil is the basic element of all the knitted coil can be divided into woven ring (KNIT NIT LOOP), floating ring (fLOAT LOOP), hanging ring (TUCK LOOP), the extension ring (HELD LOOP) and the like, knitted fabric by a series of criss-cross coil composed of straight rows coil referred meridional (WALES), said horizontal coil It is a weft coil (COURSES). Due to the different direction of coil formation , the coils have different shapes . The technical front surface (TECHNICAL FRONT) presents a V -shaped circle (V-SHAPED), and the technical reverse (TECHNICAL BACK) presents a semi-circular circle. Arc (SEMI-CIRCULAR SHAPED).
1. Weaving type :
The woven piece is a woven fabric of wool ( such as wool , artificial wool , cotton yarn, etc. ) into a piece of cloth . The cloth is mainly divided into the following three categories :
A: Mobile woven sheet (Knitted panel)
The mobile phone woven piece is woven by a hand-cranked machine. In the process of woven piece, the needle is added and the needle is reduced (retracted) to produce various styles and different sizes. The mobile phone is generally 36 inches long and the extension machine has 42 inches, 44 Inch two.
3.5.7 .9.10.12.14.16 phone has a needle, use, the phone is usually woven net between color and dyed pieces, can be woven single (Plain, jersey), wicker (Full cardigan), beads (Half cardigan), playing flowers (Tuck stitch), level three (Half Milano), playing chicken (Full milano), pit section (also known as rib rib), wave valleys (OTTOMAN / ripple, Meng flower (Racking stitch) bear the basic structure).
The flower dispenser is also divided into a hanging machine and a hand-operated automatic flowering machine (single board) . The flowering machine is generally 36 inches long , and the extension machine has 42 inches and 44 inches .
Hair hanging weaving machine main purpose is no undercoat dial flower (Intersia), which is allocated by single woven flowers, hang the desired pattern in different yarns in the weaving process, so called hanging hair. Very many colors can be woven, and is not subject to the size of the pattern, but only the single hair-hanging board (board side), it is not weaving or double-sided rib, not Obara nozzle body and the sleeve body foot original needle Several aspects are available in 3 - 1/2, 5-1/2 and 2 and 7 stitches .
Hand dial flower machine also can weave unilateral ,, you need to weave sleeve rib foot mouth or using a mobile phone, and then don the needle on the dial flower machine, dial flowers woven into pieces of cloth called undercoat dial flower ( FLOAT JACQUARD ) , the restrictions are also larger than the hanging hair , only two different colors can be woven in one line (Horizontal) , and the pattern is also limited .
B: Motor woven sheet ( KNITTED FABRIC )
The motor woven piece is woven by electric looms . The motor is mainly divided into ordinary motor , action motor , computer machine , ordinary cylinder motor and cylinder flower machine .
General Motors can only net weaving between color and color of cloth and some very simple Patterns, knitting is a picture of the (piece), but usually only
36 inches and 48 inches ( refer to the length of the board ), the number of stitches from 3 to 14 needles .
In addition to the operation of the motor can be woven into the net color, color outside the room and simply spend money, but also weave some more difficult to spend money. For example two-color three levels dial flowers (small flower) (Double jacquard), simple to make with disabilities (LINKS) , twisted rope (CABLE), a flower (Tucking) and the like, the number of stitches to the needle 14 has three needle, usually only 72 inch machine.
Computers can weave any flower and weave , but most of them are used to weave multi-color or large-patterned three-flat flower and lighter . The color can be up to six on one line . The finished piece is also a frame. .
The ordinary cylinder machine is woven into a ROLL ( ROLL ) , because it can not be woven on the original body , but also can only woven the color and inter-color woven pieces . The needle is from 7 to 36 needles .
The use of the cylinder flower machine is larger than that of the ordinary cylinder machine . It can be woven with the original body , and it can also weave double-sided flower , full of twists , flowers and valley waves, etc. , but the pattern can not be too big , the number of stitches is 7 To 28 needles .
C. Mobile phone fabric
Hand-woven is to weave the wool with a hand needle and a crochet . Any flower can be woven and does not need to be stitched , because the hand-woven can weave the whole shirt , including the necktie , chest stick and bag .
2. Weaving process :
Taking mobile phones as an example , the above mentioned that the mobile phone has a difference of 3 to 16 stitches. What is the meaning of 3 pins and 12 pins ? The "3 pins" means that there are 3 knitting needles in 1 inch on the plate , and 12 pins are machine plate 12 has a 1 inch needles, the knitting process, the surface of the needle from the knitting needle to see a weave that is a column line V-shaped ring (V-sHAPE) needle path, called a needle, Since the yarn is conveyed to the looping area of ​​the knitting machine with a certain tension in the woven piece , the woven stitch will naturally be retracted , so the number of stitches in the sweater will be more than 1 inch. number 1 inch needle, such as needle 12 sweaters. there may be 14 inches or within which a needle passage 15, and perhaps more difficult to see, in general, the denser the needle board machine, weaving The thinner the cloth is, the younger the needle is , and the finer the natural yarn should be ; the other important parameter for evaluating sweaters is the “code TENSION †we often say , and the “ word †means sweater. was sparse on tight weave extent, how word, has a great influence on weight sweaters, feel, and the laundry stereotypes, shrinkage, measurement methods word generally try to pull through (with a maximum pull force, to no longer pulled to) a certain number of branches (i.e., cross brace , Perpendicular to) a certain number of revolutions or the needle path (i.e. straight pull, along the needle path direction), is to see how much the length can reach, such as: cross-brace 10-pin 12-sided fabric sheet 7 is a half-inch (i.e., 1 -15/16 inch), commonly called the word piece of cloth is a half inch 7; different pit strip (RIB) pull method, usually several pull-out support (a pit including a bottom face), For example, the 2X2 pit 10 pit pull code , because different people pull different methods , there may be two results , one is 10 needles 10 bottom needle pull , the other method is 10 needles 9 bottom needle pull , so pay special attention to, not a mistake. When weaving the film, we should select the corresponding thickness of the wool according to the different number of stitches, organization and code requirements. According to the general level of the code, the number of stitches can be roughly determined according to the following standards:
12 needles use 1/10---1/17 ( metric support ), 9- pin use 1/7----1/9,
7- pin with 1/6-----1/8, 5- pin with 1/3-----1/5,
3 needles use 1/1.5----1/3,
For example : use a 20/2 100% COTTON woven 5- needle shirt with 5 hairs, [20/2 = 1/17 , 5X (1/17) = 1/3.4 or more
Only approximate range in the general case, as with 2/30 100% VISCOSE 1 Article 5 woolen needle to do the perspective effect is not yet available, but substituting 3 12 21/2 100% COTTON knitting needles is impossible.
There are two different weaves when the two different types of wool ( different colors or ingredients ) are transported through the yarn feeder to the weaving loom :
a: Lead hair ( PLATED ) , that is , the two kinds of wool are respectively fed into the inner and outer mouth of the yarn feeding nozzle , so that one wool is on one side of the fabric and the other wool is on the bottom side of the fabric .
B. Mixed wool (MIXED), i.e. two kinds of input indiscriminately as wool wool same as two loom, weaving two kinds of wool was obtained randomly distributed on both surfaces.
C. fight hair (TWISTED), before the loom wool The two together, making it pass through a twisting machine to fight hair after hair shirt sheet input loom.
Two or more different wool ingredients woven from the wool , the final composition of the sweater (FINAL CONTENT) must be calculated through the calculation , if the different parts of the sweater are woven with different ingredients ( such as a shirt is 2/30 100% VISCOSE weave, and the next column with 21/2 100% COTTON weave), only the pound through a weaving plant with a gross weight of each component of the final composition of sweaters before seen. but if the whole piece shirt is through one of three methods weave, can be calculated by the following method, whether it is embedded hair, wool or mixed wool to fight, which is calculated the same:
1. If 2/30 100% VISCOSE fitted WL2070LYCRA [83D (1/109) 85% NYLON 15% NYNYON 15% ELASTANE], calculation method:
Convert the two wool into the same unit ( turned into metric count ):
VISCOSE : 2/30; LYCRA : 83D=1/109.
2. Calculate the thickness of the two hairs after embedding ( or blending or splicing ) the hair ( that is, the two wools are combined into one length by a considerable length ):
2/30 + 1/109 = ( 2*109 + 30 ) / ( 30*109) = 248 / 3270
3. Calculate the percentage of VISCOSE and LYCRA :
VISCOSE count as: 218/3270 = 2/30, 3270 corresponds to 218 shares wool.
The count of LYCRA is : 1/ 109 = 30 / 3270, which is equivalent to 30 strands of 3270 wool .
The total number of hairs is : 248/3270, which is equivalent to 248 strands of 3270 wool.
Among the above metric counts , the denominator ( count ) is the same , it is not difficult to see that the more shares , the thicker the wool , the following calculation can get the hair ratio
Example : VISCOSE : 218/248 = 0.879 = 88%
LYCRA : 30/248 = 0.121 = 12%
4. And LYCRA contains 85% NYLON 　 15% ELASTANE, so we have to do the following calculations :
NYLON: 12%*0.85 =0.102=10%
ELASTANE: 12%*0.15=0.018=2%
5. So the final ingredients are : 88%VISCOSE 10%NYLON 2%ELASTANE ( percentage with no decimal point )
The second section of the cutting machine ( CUTTING )
The cutting machine cuts the woven piece into the desired shape according to the pattern.
Most of the motor cut sheets are required, because the motor weave cloth Cloth vast majority square or shape requires cutting of the main parts comprising a clip bits, collar, Xiudi, shirt sleeves and legs like a top, sweaters cutting most of them are hand-cut, because sweaters elasticity is relatively large, and the shape is not uniform texture.
Only the net color cloth woven by the cylinder machine can be cut with electricity. In terms of woven tablets, it is rarely necessary to cut, except for some special styles.
The third section of the shin ( SEWING )
All motor woven fabrics must be passed through the cheekbones after they have been cut. The purpose is to prevent the draping of the woven fabrics from spreading. There are three-line brakes and four-line brakes for the brakes. Two methods:
1 . A single layer of humerus (commonly known as a piece) is then sutured through a slit.
2 . The double-layered humerus is the two layers of cloth together with the tibia, and the tibia is not required to be sutured through the suture.
The mobile phone woven piece only needs the crepe opening, including the sleeve top yarn crepe and the yarn end.
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